VIOLET CULTURE
- CULTURE
- VIOLET SEED GERMINATION by Clive Groves
- DISEASES AND PESTS
- RETURN TO BOTANY PAGES
CULTURE
It is generally accepted that because of the diverse natural habitat of the species,optimum growing and flowering conditions vary. Reference should be made to treatise on wild violets as shown in other sections.Sweet Violets are regarded as hardy in the UK but Parma varieties should have winter protection.In milder climates this is not required and cultivation is easier.
Violets are mainly plants which thrive in woodlands and dappled shade and these conditions are appreciated by them. They need good light to ripen the crowns but not strong sun and arid conditions. It is often said that they thrive on neglect because they are tough and resilient plants but many respond very well to extra feeding and moisture, responding with strong , bright flowers and robust foliage and roots.. Deeply dug soil with decayed manure and organic matter together with a general fertiliser are excellent for fine violets, for they have deep and searching roots.A top dressing of bone meal is useful for developing good blooms. Violets form large clumps and have extensive runners so give them plenty of room for development. In dry and warm weather extra moisture both at the roots and on the leaves is usually beneficial in reducing stress and attack from the like of red spider. Good drainage is important and particularly with the Parma types where additional grit can help.Many growers believe that drainage is perhaps the most important factor
Runners develop freely and should be picked off during the growing season to allow maximum flower production from the plant crowns. For the very best results propagate annually by layering or plant division since plants that germinate from seed will not usually come true to type or colour unless from selected seed stock.
We would be delighted to hear from growers/collectors all over the world of their cultural experiences , so that information from a wide range of climates can be included on these pages or with linked pages to other web sites.
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VIOLET SEED
GERMINATION - CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS from
Clive Groves
GERMINATING VIOLET SEED CAN BE GREAT FUN
BUT A DEAL OF PATIENCE IS REQUIRED. HAVING SAID THIS,
PATIENCE HAS TO BE ONE OF THE MAIN QUALIFICATIONS FOR
ANYONE WHO DARES TO CALL THEMSELVES A
GARDENER. THERE ARE OBVIOUSLY VERY MANY
DIFFERENT TYPES OF VIOLETS,THEREFORE THE FOLLOWING TIPS
ARE GIVEN TO COVER THE MAJORITY ONLY.
MOST VIOLET SEEDS NEED A COOLING PERIOD TO TRIGGER OFF
GROWTH. THIS CAN BE ACHIEVED IN TWO WAYS -
1) IN COUNTRIES THAT EXPERIENCE COLD WINTERS WITH FROSTS,
THE SEED CAN BE SOWN IN PANS OR SEED TRAYS AND PLACED IN
THE OPEN OR IN COLD FRAMES TO WEATHER. CARE MUST BE
TAKEN AGAINST VERMIN ie COVER WITH SMALL MESH WIRE
NETTING.
2) ALTERNATIVELY, PERHAPS THE SAFER WAY IS TO CREATE YOUR
OWN MINI WINTER BY PRE COOLING IN YOUR REFRIGERATOR, THIS
IS DONE IN THE FOLLOWING WAY -
WHEN YOUR SEEDS ARRIVE, REMOVE THEM FROM THE PACKET, MIX
THEM WITH A SMALL AMOUNT OF DAMP PEAT (OR ALTERNATIVE
PEAT SUBSTITUTE) MAKE SURE THE COMPOST IS DAMP AS THE
SEEDS WILL BE DRY ON ARRIVAL TO YOU AND THEY WILL NEED TO
TAKE IN MOISTURE, THIS IS ACHIEVED BY PUTTING THE
MIXTURE OF BOTH COMPOST AND SEED INTO A POLYTHENE BAG.
MAKE SURE THERE IS AIR IN THE BAG AND THEN SEAL WITH A
RUBBER BAND OR TWIST-TIE. THIS SHOULD THEN BE LEFT
FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE TO ALLOW THE
SEED TO TAKE IN MOISTURE. AFTER THIS, TRANSFER THE BAG TO
THE TOP SHELF OF YOUR 'FRIDGE, WHERE IT IS COOLEST (NOT
IN THE FREEZER.) THE SEED CAN SIT HERE FOR AT LEAST THE
NEXT MONTH, 6 WEEKS IS PROBABLY BETTER. CHECK NOW AND
THEN TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT TRYING TO GERMINATE, IF
THEY ARE , REMOVE IMMEDIATELY. AFTER THIS PERIOD, THE
SEED MIXTURE CAN BE SOWN IN PANS,TRAYS OR FLATS.
LIGHT
IS ALSO AN IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN GERMINATING, SO MAKE
SURE THAT THE SEED IS ONLY LIGHTLY COVERED AND KEPT IN A
LIGHT PLACE. THE CONTAINER IS THEN TRADIONALLY
COVERED BY A SHEET OF GLASS TO HELP RETAIN MOISTURE. CARE
MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID DIRECT SUNSHINE,WHICH CAN DO
DAMAGE. A NORTH FACING WINDOW IS BEST.
WHEN GERMINATION STARTS (IT MAY BE WEEKS , IT MAY BE
MONTHS) MAKE SURE THE GLASS IS REMOVED IMMEDIATELY, IF
NOT,THIS CAN ENCOURAGE DAMPING OFF. AN AIRY SITUATION IS
ALSO NECESSARY TO AVOID DISEASE.
GERMINATION IN VIOLETS IS NEARLY ALWAYS SPASMODIC. IF YOU
TRY TO REMOVE THE FIRST SEEDLINGS TOO QUICKLY, THERE IS A
DANGER THAT YOU MAY DAMAGE THE EARLY GERMINATION STAGES
OF SEEDS ADJACENT, ......SO BE PATIENT.
WHEN YOU ARE SATISFIED THAT MOST OF YOUR SEEDLINGS HAVE
APPEARED, THEN YOU CAN PRICK THEM OUT. USE YOUR DIBBER TO
GET WELL UNDER THE ROOTS, THEY HAVE A HABIT OF SENDING
ROOTS STRAIGHT DOWN AT FIRST. THESE SEEDLINGS CAN BE
PRICKED OUT AT APPROX. ONE INCH (2.5cm) .
THEY
SHOULD BE PUT INTO A SEED TRAY OR CAN BE PUT STRAIGHT
INTO A SMALL POT, EMPHASIS IS ON THE SMALL (AROUND
2.5" - 3"). LARGER POTS AT THIS EARLY STAGE CAN
CAUSE THE PLANTS TO DAMP OFF AND DIE. A PEAT
BASED, MULTI PURPOSE COMPOST IS BEST,ALTHOUGH A PEAT
ALTERNATIVE CAN BE USED.
THE PLANTS SHOULD THEN BE KEPT IN A SEMI-SHADED POSITION
UNTIL THEY ARE OLD ENOUGH TO BE EITHER POTTED ON OR
PLANTED OUT. REGULAR CHECKS SHOULD BE MADE FOR
THEIR MAIN PESTS -
SLUGS (SLIME TRAILS)
RED SPIDER MITE (PALE YELLOW LEAVES)
APHIDS (STUNTED GROWTH)
VIOLET
MIDGE (HARD ROLLED UP LEAVES)
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DISEASES AND PESTS .
SLUGS...to avoid these , use pellets or if you prefer the well known organic methods
RED SPIDER MITE... avoid hot and dry conditions
APHIDS...use an environmentally safe insecticide
VIOLET MIDGE.....remove affected leaves and burn them
Material Copyright © 1999 SWEETVIOLETS